Missoula’s lack of digs

Ripe for the picking

Missoula, Montana, is situated in west-central Montana at an elevation of 3,200 feet within a broad structural basin. This basin is encircled by several mountain ranges, including the Garnet, Sapphire, Rattlesnake, and Northern Bitterroot Mountains. Missoula also connects four additional valleys, earning it the nickname “Five Valleys.” These valleys include the Bitterroot Valley to the south and the Hellgate and Blackfoot valleys to the east, as well as the Flathead/Jocko Valley extending down from the north.

Three rivers converge in Missoula: the Blackfoot, the Bitterroot, and the Clark Fork of the Columbia River. The region experiences a semi-arid climate, with approximately 120 frost-free days each year, which supports a lush and varied vegetation that has sustained generations of inhabitants. As of now, Missoula has a population of nearly 80,000 people.

Due to the surrounding mountains, development predominantly occurs to the south, into the Bitterroot Valley, and to the northwest toward the Bitterroot River. Historic residential neighborhoods are primarily found in the northern Rattlesnake area, while most of the historic commercial entities are located downtown.

In 1860, at the confluence of the Bitterroot and Clark Fork rivers, Christopher Higgins and Francis Worden founded the Hellgate Trading Post. They built a sawmill at the site, which they named Missoula Mills. In 1866, Missoula Mills became the county seat, and the name was eventually shortened to Missoula. To protect the settlers, Fort Missoula was established in the following 30 years. The arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway in the late 19th century paved the way for new developments, and in 1893, the University of Montana was founded.

Over the next century and a half, many of the buildings and sites established in Missoula became cultural icons for the residents and were listed or nominated for the state’s historic registry. Today, with eleven historic districts and dozens of individually listed buildings on the National Register of Historic Places, Missoula’s history is a vital aspect of its contemporary charm. While the history of Missoula’s settlement has been well-documented and preserved, it is important to note that Indigenous tribes have occupied this area for over 8,000 years, and minimal archaeological work has been conducted in the region.

Missoula has been occupied for at least 8,000 years by the Salish tribe, who referred to the area as Nemissoolatakoo. The name “Missoula” is derived from this word and roughly translates to “river of ambush/surprise” (Anon, History 2024). Throughout the history and prehistory of the Missoula/Hell Gate area, the Bitterroot Salish frequently traversed the region on their way to eastern bison hunting grounds. In the narrow eastern passes, they were often ambushed by members of the Blackfoot tribe. The Hell Gate area became known as Imisuletiku, which translates to “a place chilled with fear.” The Salish’s first encounter with white explorers occurred during the Lewis and Clark expedition in 1805. This region holds significant cultural importance and should be considered for extensive archaeological research. However, to this day, very little excavation has been conducted in the Missoula/Hell Gate area.

Historically, there has been plenty of archeological work done in Montana. J. Morton Elrod, a professor at the University of Montana, published photos of pictographs on the west shore of Flathead Lake near Rollins, Montana, north of Missoula. His 1908 report was the first dealing with Montana archeology west of the Continental Divide.

Then, in 1950, Joel Shiner reported eleven occupation sites in the Libby area while conducting research in the River Basin Surveys program. Throughout the 1950s, Carling Malouf studied large portions of western Montana, including research at Flathead Lake, the Bitterroot Valley, the Upper Clark Fork River Valley, the Lower Clark Fork River Valley, the Blackfoot River Valley, and the Jocko River Valley. Several sites were in each of these areas.

Gillette Griswold and Dave Larom, in 1954, conducted surveys in the Flathead River and Hellgate Canyon areas, finding few sites. Of the 31 locations surveyed in the Hellgate area, only nine were established as occupation sites. Artifacts from Hellgate included scrapers, knives, pestles, and mauls, with the most abundant artifact type being chipped stone projectile points. Most of these points were corner-notched, with unstemmed points the next most frequent type (Anon Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley). Griswold and Larom concluded that a simple hunting and gathering culture occupied Hellgate Canyon on a seasonal and probably intermittent basis from late prehistoric to recent historic times( Anon Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley).

The University of Montana’s Department of Anthropology has conducted plenty of archeological survey classes in the Clark Fork Valley. In the spring of 1968, Mr. Larry Loendorf’s class collected many chips, blades, several scrapers, and 17 whole or fragmentary projectile points from the Alberton, Montana, area, which is part of Missoula County. Chips of chert and obsidian, along with several side-notched projectile points, suggested later influence from the Plains or Great Basin (Anon Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley). Based on these and a few other excavations throughout the years, it seems clear that the Clark Fork River may have been an important prehistoric thoroughfare and deserves much additional study (Anon Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley).

There has been very little archaeological research conducted in the Missoula area over the years. Most of the work has been carried out by the University of Montana’s anthropology department, along with the forest service overseeing the Lolo National Forest. This research has primarily taken place in the Rock Creek Watershed, Bitterroot Valley, Middle Clark Fork River, Rattlesnake Creek drainage, and Hellgate Canyon.

According to Sidney Bacon, an archaeologist with the Lolo National Forest, excavation of sites on federal land is generally not conducted due to the preferences of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. However, they do monitor ground-disturbing activities in sensitive areas during implementation, such as toilet installations at campgrounds with known subsurface materials. In her 24 years on the job, Bacon has performed only one archaeological dig, aside from shovel testing. This dig, which began in 1993, took place in 2022.

Rock Creek is about 80 miles long and drains over a million acres of land, with its source high in the continental divide (Siria, 1938). Along the creek is the Hogback Homestead. In the mid-1990s, while crews were working to expand the road leading to the site, they discovered a wealth of lithic artifacts. This excavation has continued to expand, revealing that in 5400 BCE, Indigenous people using Cascade points occupied the Hogback Homestead site (Anon, Ancient America).

Another important archeological survey took place in the spring of 1984 and was conducted by archeology students from the University of Montana and led by Dr. Thomas Foor. This survey involved about 680 acres of land just north of Missoula proper. This dig, involving over 122 man-hours, found abundant signs of usage by logging and mining personnel but no sign of permanent prehistoric occupation. Instead, they found that:

1) Prehistoric hunting and gathering peoples seasonally exploited the Rattlesnake area during the spring and summer months.

2) Prehistoric peoples used the lowland zones and ridgeline areas as travel routes.

3) Prehistoric peoples used upland zones for specialized activities and for a shorter time than lowland areas.

4) Prehistoric peoples used semi-permanent and permanent stream drainages as “use corridors” between upland and 1owland areas.

5) Peripheral (or gradient) zones between geographic zones contain a higher number of sites than areas away from such gradient zones.

6) Areas of high surface visibility (i.e. meadows, ridgetops, etc.) offer the best opportunity for locating archaeological evidence (David Schwab, Trudy Shaw, Mark White, Sue Harness, Molly Hueffed, Kieth Debus 1984).

The Rattlesnake dig did identify multiple historic homestead sites, evidence of logging and mining activities, such as Site #12, which is identified as a logging camp, and historic artifacts like glass, ceramics, and metal tools found at various sites. ​

In 1981, another notable excavation took place in Missoula County at the Whitetail site, located in the Ninemile Valley, just west of town. This site was identified in 1977 by B. Ryan Willett, a Social Science Technician for the Lolo National Forest, during a cultural resource inventory for the Cedar Creek timber sale. The excavation revealed both surface and subsurface prehistoric artifacts, including lithic materials such as knives and projectile points. Most of these artifacts were discovered within the top 30 centimeters of soil.

The site was deemed eligible for the National Register of Historic Places under criterion D, which indicates its potential to provide significant historical information. The findings suggest that the site was used seasonally by prehistoric peoples and contains a high percentage of chert, potentially indicating trade routes or cultural affiliations. As the site remains largely undisturbed, it offers opportunities for future research (J. Michael Ryan, 1981).

In 1977, Jerome Ryan conducted one of the few archaeological studies on the prehistoric use of the river valley as part of his Master of Arts thesis at the University of Montana. This study aimed to address questions about the cultural significance of the Clark Fork Valley, which lies between the Columbia Plateau and the Northern Plains. It was hypothesized that this valley served as an important route for cultural exchange between these two regions (Ryan, 1977).

Ryan used 5×5 foot test pits to excavate the area, uncovering and examining several artifacts. These included pictographs and items related to burial practices and migratory routes. The findings supported his hypothesis of contact between the people of the Middle Clark Fork Valley and the Columbian Plateau.

Since the 1977 survey, not much archaeological activity has been documented in the valley. However, in 2020, a construction permit was applied for to build the Cranky Sam Public House in downtown Missoula. This initiated the Section 106 process, during which the site was found to be rich with artifacts dating back to the late 19th century. Kelly Dixon, a professor in the University of Montana’s Department of Anthropology, and Kate Kolwicz, a graduate student at the university, led the excavation team.

The discoveries provided evidence of a Red-Light District and Chinatown that once dominated the area. “There are probably thousands of artifacts, ranging from intact glass bottles and liquor bottles to ceramics, both broken and intact,” said Kolwicz. “We have some organic remains, like bones from beef, pork, and sheep. We even found oyster shells, clam shells, and crab claws. We have metal items, including a Chinese meat cleaver and some Chinese locks” (Braun 2020).

The owners of the new pub decided to name it “Cranky Sam” after a notorious Chinese immigrant in the area. According to Destination Missoula, “no one knows the real name of the man whom English-speaking locals dubbed ‘Cranky Sam.’ His criminal activities were well-documented in old news clippings and police reports. In a Missoulian article from 1908, Cranky Sam was arrested for running an illegal ‘hop-joint’—‘hops’ being slang for opium. So, yes, it was probably some kind of opium den. Ironically, the term ‘hops’ was adopted by the brewing community much later” (Anon, The fascinating history of Cranky Sam Pub House).

Missoula, Montana, is a historically rich region that boasts a deep and complex past, having been inhabited for over 8,000 years. This long history is marked by the presence of Indigenous tribes, such as the Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreille, who have lived in harmony with the land, utilizing its resources and developing rich cultural traditions. The archaeological potential of this area is significant, yet much of it remains largely unexplored, presenting a unique opportunity for researchers and historians alike.

The landscape of Missoula is not only beautiful but also holds the key to understanding the lives of those who came before. From ancient hunting grounds to seasonal gathering sites, the remnants of past civilizations are scattered throughout the region, waiting to be uncovered. The area’s diverse cultural heritage is further enriched by the arrival of European settlers in the 19th century, who brought their own customs, practices, and conflicts, intertwining their narratives with those of the Indigenous peoples.

This blending of cultures has created a tapestry of history that is both intricate and compelling. The stories of resilience, adaptation, and change are embedded in the land, and further archaeological research is essential to uncover these narratives. By delving into the past, researchers can illuminate the lives of the Indigenous tribes, the impact of colonization, and the evolution of the community over time.

Moreover, the archaeological study of Missoula can provide valuable insights into broader themes of human history, such as migration, trade, and environmental adaptation. As climate change and urban development continue to threaten archaeological sites, the urgency for research and preservation becomes even more pronounced. By prioritizing archaeological exploration in Missoula, we can not only honor the rich heritage of its original inhabitants but also foster a deeper understanding of the region’s historical significance.

In conclusion, Missoula, Montana, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of its diverse cultural heritage. The importance of further archaeological research cannot be overstated, as it holds the potential to uncover hidden stories, foster connections between past and present, and enrich our understanding of the human experience in this remarkable region.

References Cited

Anon

Ancient America: Montana 6000 BCE to 3000 BCE. Nativeamericannetroots.net. http://nativeamericannetroots.net/diary/1964, accessed December 10, 2024c.

Anon

Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley| Missoula to Superior. (“Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley| Missoula t …”) Montana Missoula to Superior, Monta.

Anon

Historic preservation. Www. ci. https://www.ci/3164/Historic-Preservation, accessed November 3, 2024a.

Anon

History. Destination Missoula. https://destinationmissoula.org/history, accessed November 3, 2024b.

Anon.

Mhs.mt.gov.https://mhs.mt.gov/Shpo/docs/MPDs/Historic-Resources-of-Missoula-MPD.pdf, accessed December 9, 2024b.

Anon

The fascinating history of Cranky Sam pub house. Destination Missoula. https://destinationmissoula.org/blog/the-fascinating-history-of-cranky-sam-pub-house, accessed December 9, 2024.

Bacon, Sidney

2024 Interview by Jason Laughlin.

Braun, Maddy 2020

Downtown excavation site reveals Missoula’s rich history. Newstalk KGVO. Newstalk KGVO 1290 AM & 98.3 FM. https://newstalkkgvo.com/downtown-excavation-site-reveals-missoulas-rich-history/, accessed November 3, 2024.

David Schwab, Trudy Shaw, Mark White, Sue Harness, Molly Hueffed, Kieth Debus 1984

A Cultural Resource of the Rattlesnake Area. University of Montana, Missoula, Montana.

J. Michael Ryan, C. Milo Mcleod 1981

The White Tail Site Excavation: A prehistoric occupation site in the Ninemile Valley of Western Montana (24M048).

Ryan, Jerome Michael 1977

Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley| Missoula to Superior. (“”Archeological survey of the middle Clark Fork River Valley| Missoula t …”) Montana Missoula to Superior, Monta.

Siria, C. H.

1938 Rock Creek Past and Present.